Starting Seeds for Your Garden

It's finally time to start seeds for the garden! This post is going to focus on helpful tools to start the process. This is a quick overview, but to get more information, check out the source links at the bottom.

Equipment

Containers:

Be creative and repurpose items to start your seeds. You’ll need a container of some kind to plant in, a tray to capture moisture, a “lid” to create a terrarium effect during germination. There are many possibilities of seed starting trays to purchase, that make the activity both easy and safe. But you can repurpose yogurt cups, paper cups, deli containers, plastic fruit boxes, etc. Just make sure you add proper drainage. If you re-use old plastic pots or any other container, make sure to sterilize them and air dry them before planting.

Lights:

Very few species of plants require light to germinate. So, once your seeds have germinated, it’s time to add light. Lights should be approximately 2” from the top of the seedlings at all times, so you need to be able to adjust as the seedlings grow. Lights should be on 14-16 hours per day and there should be 8 hours of darkness for proper growth. Check your seed packets for what is best for each plant.
If you can get enough light from a window that is great, but make sure to rotate your plants as they lean to keep them from growing too far sideways.

Types of Soil

Seed Starting Mixes

Seed starter mixes aren’t always made from soil. They’re made from a variety of ingredients like sphagnum peat moss, vermiculite, coconut coir, perlite, and rice hulls.
All of these ingredients are chosen for their use in aeration, drainage, and moisture.
Another reason why soilless seed starting mixes are widely used is that rich soil is not necessary during the germination stage. Seeds actually don’t need additional nutrients during this time. The structure of the seed contains both the plant embryo and enough nutrients to sustain the plant until it sets its first two true seeds.
Most seed starter mixes are also sterilized, so there is less chance of weeds, fungi, or bacteria growing along with your intended sprout.

Potting Soil

Potting soil is generally made up of compost, composted manure, or field soil as well as sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite.
It may have fertilizer mixed in, something that you should be aware of if sowing seeds as seed starting soil can’t have too much fertilizer in it without accidentally ‘burning’ the seeds.
In general, potting soil may actually contain soil, which means it may also contain soil microbiologicals such as fungi or bacteria, and depending on the soil, it might be stuff that lingers such as the fungal causatives of problems like damping off.

Potting Mix

Potting mix usually is soilless (and may be sterilized), but often contains larger particulate matter like forest products, and may or may not include a fertilizer that’s totally unnecessary for seed starting.
When finding a potting mix to use, check what the used ingredients do to make sure the moisture and acidity is good for the plants you are planting in.

If you’re looking for a quick and easy way to tell the difference between a commercial potting mix and a commercial seed starting mix, there is an easy way to tell the difference. If it has no field soil, compost or sand listed on its ingredient label, it’s seed starting mix, and if it has field soil, sand, or compost, it’s potting soil.

When to Start Seeds

Since there are so many plants with their own needs for timing, here are some sources to help figure out when to start your seeds. Also, always reference your seed packets if they have instructions.

After Germination

Air

It is helpful to add some movement and air circulation once your seedlings are about 3-4 inches high. Good air circulation will help keep moisture off the surface of the soil and the leaves as well as strengthening the stems. The goal is short and bushy, not tall and leggy.

Watering

Water when soil is nearly dry, but never dry all the way. Never wet either. Watering from the bottom tray is recommended to keep moisture off the tender leaves.

Fertilizing

You can begin fertilizing when the first set of true leaves are established. This will be the second set you will see, the first being the cotyledon leaves. Use any liquid fertilizer of your choice at one quarter strength.